The French Pharmacy Manifesto 001
Skincare truthing by a beauty product developer (Part 1)
I’ve spent substantial amount of time slathered in every serum, solution, cream, créme, treatment, ointment, lotion and potion you can imagine. That time has been spent both behind the studious (albeit clinical) scenery of a cosmetic chemist’s “bench”, and behind the heated, aluminum kettles churning gallons of emulsions during a production run. Or, less interestingly, at my desk surrounded by many submissions of tiny lab bottles. Somehow, miraculously, none of this over-exposure to skincare has made me tire of it. It’s actually kind of sick how much I love it.
Without being completely disillusioned about beauty, I am admittedly sobered up by close proximity to ~industry secrets~. The difference between magical promises and delightful efficacy often come down to an impressive ingredient list, delicious product texture and testing that can be trusted.
In Paris, I’ve found home not only among the best pastries and cheese, but also among world class skincare so affordable Sephora feels like a casino, betting high on over-promising products.
The mentality behind French pharmacy skincare is mostly focused on healthy skin maintenance, with some emergency treatments in between. Llike the French diet, a consistent approach to health is valued over trends and flashy packaging.
Marketing and packaging still attract me like a silky smooth moth to a glittering flame, but my foundational routine is solid.
This post is part one of my French Pharmacy Manifesto, where I’ll analyze a few products at a time. I’ll break down what the formulas actually do, and how they really feel. All skin is different, as are personal preferences, but I hope you’ll have some fun reading mine.
Let’s start with three of the pharmacy’s most treasured treats: A313, Biafine, and Ialuset Hyaluronic Acid.
A313
Behold, a fresh tube of this diva. I personally love A313. I think what surprises A313 skeptics is its texture: a thick, oily ointment. The lightest squeeze of the aluminum tube easily emits a pea-size of pomade, loaded with Vitamin A. The remaining ingredients in the base are solvents and emulsifying agents that hold this formula together.
Ingredients
Retinol can be intimidating and overwhelming. A313 is formulated with three retinyl esters (derivatives of Vitamin A) at 0.12%, considered gentle enough to encourage skin-cell turnover without the irritation of pure retinol or retinoic acid. I’ve heard of A313 referred to as “French Tretinoin”, but it’s not. This is a different chemical.
A313 may feel most comfortable on dry or combination skin-types, or on anyone who loves smothering their face in Vaseline. Actually, that’s exactly what this is. Vaseline dosed with a bit of Vitamin A.
Packaging
A quick note on packaging: retinol in all forms is sensitive to light, water and air. When exposed to any of the three, it degrades and loses efficacy. A313’s anhydrous (water-free) formula and air-tight aluminum packaging protects its stability.
Texture & Application
Acne-prone skin, beware ⚠️ your morning-after gift will likely be an oil-slick around your nose. I experience hormonal breakouts in combination with dry skin (how delightful!) and I find some pore-clogging with nightly use.
Applying A313 every other night however…. wow. This makes my skin almost reflective. I’ve recently retired using Tretinoin after many years, and find alternating this with a Mandelic Acid serum is enough to keep my skin relatively clear.
BIAFINE
Biafine was introduced to me last summer as a solution to the evil mosquito bites on my legs. My French boyfriend confidently shared this is the only cream to eliminate diabolical itching, almost immediately. Having seen Biafine reviewed as more of a moisturizer from every post-Paris-vacation-shopping TikTok ever, I was shocked to find out he was right.
Ingredients
The French use Biafine for irritations: rashes, eczema, itchy skin, angry skin and flakiness. Biafine is not, however, an effective moisturizer.
Despite this cream having calming and moisturizing ingredients like allantoin, glycerin, avocado oil and squalane, it’s more nourishing than hydrating. The base contains enough paraffin wax to be comedogenic, creating trouble for easily-clogged pores. Personally, my skin has broken out any time I’ve applied Biafine as a moisturizer more than two days in a row.
Texture & Application
Biafine is instead my mosquito bite vanquisher, sunburn soother, eczema eraser, and solution to any of my dry or itchy skin issues. When I need moisture, I just use a moisturizer.
Those who apply Biafine all-over for an overnight skin repair could be disappointed. For a barrier treatment, stick to Cicaplast. (More on that in the next Manifesto piece). The big ass tube pictured has lasted me nearly a year, for less than 10 euros.
Scent!
Oh, and I have to mention that this smells so gorgeous. The scent is green, slightly herbal and summery. Yum!
IALUSET À L’ACIDE HYALURONIQUE
Texture
My most sweeping, general comment for French pharmacy treatments (and I’m specifically referring to treatments versus branded skincare) is that they lack “cosmetic elegance”. Cosmetic elegance is how we describe powerful active ingredients suspended in a formula that also feels indulgent on skin: cloud-like, buttery and silky.
This is not that product.
Yes, hyaluronic acid is one of the industry’s most trusted hydrating molecules. However a high concentration does not guarantee a satisfying moisturizer.
Ingredients
Ialuset’s 0.2% hyaluronic acid formula is absolutely meant to be a treatment for healing abrasions, scrapes or irritations all over the body. Sometimes, I mix a dollop with Biafine as a healing booster. Because it’s not designed to be a moisturizer, apply all over your face with caution. You’re likely to break out, as I did, thanks to a base of simple emollients and a slightly occlusive texture.
Application
Applying this treatment has a smooth, wet break and then an almost-chalky, unsatisfying dry-down. This product will teach you the difference from hydration existing, and the satisfying feeling of hydration given by a more sophisticated skincare formula. There’s a reason why so much development time and head-scratching is devoted to a moisturizer’s base.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on French pharmacy products you’ve tried, dreamt of trying, ones that failed to meet your expectations or exceeded them!
This is only part 1, and I think the next batch of products will be reviewing skincare brand legends. Think, La Roche Posay, Caudalie, Avene and the like. What do you think?
cant wait for the next one 😌
yesss Biafine is my summer vacation staple between the bug bites and sunburns!